Frequently Asked Questions

1. Why wood floors?

Wood Floors are hygienic, practical and very stylish. They do not harbour parasites like carpets do and they are virtually maintenance free. Our unique three year guarantee ensures peace of mind.

2. HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE TO GET MY FLOOR DONE?

For a typical 80 square metres, it should take 2-3 days to install the wood and 2 days to sand and apply 3 coats of finish. This, of course, can vary with difficulty of the work. An average reception room can be completed in 1-2 days, whilst a sports hall, nightclub, bar or shop can take 2 to 4 days. Londonwood™ is the only UK company that will begin the flooring restoration or installation process immediately after you stop trading. Our nightclub, shop and bar clients often require us to start at 4am on a Saturday night and have the work completed before trading again on Monday morning.

3. WHAT COLOUR WILL THE FLOOR BE AFTER SANDING?

Aged pine floorboards have a nice warmth to them. Every floor is slightly different. Golden brown is common, antique honey pine is also common, you can’t tell until you start sanding. The colour depends on the age of the wood and its acclimatisation with oxygen. Block or strip floors are usually oak, beech, ash, maple, cedar, or dark hardwoods mixed together and laid in herringbone patterns or basket weave or in the case of strips length ways.

4. WHAT FLOOR VARNISH DO WE USE?

We use only professional floor varnishes, we do not use any of the varnishes found in D.I.Y shops or stores. We use a professional matt or silk varnish made by Bonakemi. It is water based, has very little odour and gives a beautiful hard wearing finish.

5. HOW LONG BEFORE I CAN RETURN TO THE HOUSE AFTER COATING?

No one should enter the home or open any doors or windows for at least 4 hours after the final coat is applied. The next morning is usually the best time to enter and open doors and windows to air out any remaining fumes. Please be gentle on the floor for the first several weeks. You will know when the floor is fully cured when it becomes ‘slippery’ in socks. Polyurethane finishes may take a little longer to dry. If you will still have some construction traffic, use cardboard to protect your new floors (do not use tape on floor).

6. WHAT WILL BE THE AVERAGE LIFE SPAN OF MY NEW FLOOR?

The general rule is the more foot traffic the greater the wear. In an average household of two adults and two children and a medium sized dog, the hallways will receive most traffic in the house. Without a decent entrance mat and without regular cleaning/washing you could expect the floor to last 4-5 years. A bedroom which will receive little traffic will last for years longer, Your floors will last years longer with regular cleaning as the grit from the street wears down the varnish. Felt pads on chairs, castors on sofas also help protect your floor.

7. HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?

For floor sanding projects of less than 70m2 prices start at £22 per sq m2 for a sand and three coats of varnish. To do a room with floorboards that need minor repairs, gap filling ( not wood strips ),staining sanding and 3 coats of varnish it is currently £30 per sq m2. All our prices include labour and materials.
Wood Installation projects start from £14 up to £22.
For larger volume jobs please call for a quote.
Please note that minimum charge for the job is £450.

8. HOW MANY TIMES CAN MY NEW FLOOR BE SANDED?

If you properly maintain your floor you will never have to re-sand, unless of course you grow tired of the colour, or some very real damaged has occurred.Basically, the amount of sandable surface determines how many times you can re-sand. Thickness of the hardwood surface above the tongue and groove is what you look for, if you are worried about sanding. One thing to keep in mind is you can only sand to about an 1/8th of an inch before the tongue and groove in your hardwood. Any thinner and you run the risk of weakness at the edges. Sanding is an art. If you ever do decide to sand your floor, we highly recommend that you take the time to screen your potential workers.

9. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A "JOB FINISHED" AND A "FACTORY JOB"?

Nowadays we are able to pull your wood floor out of a box, install it no sanding needed it and have you walking on it the same day. This is due to the miracle of the “factory finish.”
A “job finish” is when we install an “unfinished” floor that is bare wood. We sand it flat, fill any gaps or knotholes, apply a sealer coat and then finish with two coats of Bonakemi varnish. The end result is a five to fifteen year finish, depending on your traffic and life style.

10. DO YOU PROVIDE FREE ESTIMATES?

Yes, we will provide a free estimate. This will give us information on the area we will be working in as well.

To receive an instant written quotation, click here.

11. WHAT ROOMS SHOULD I CONSIDER FOR HARDWOOD FLOORS?

Hardwood can be installed in almost any room, with a few exceptions. A full bathroom is not the best place for wood due to the high moisture level from a tub/shower. Whilst we can and do install flooring in bathrooms, the potential risk of water damage is higher. Below grade areas, such as a basement with concrete floors, are not usually suitable for Hardwood. Moisture tends to gradually come through the concrete from the ground below, causing moisture problems. An engineered product (i.e.. Pre-finished/Laminate) is usually a better choice for this type of area.

Engineered Flooring

An engineered floor usually comes pre-finished in long strips or planks. It is made from several layers of criss-crossed laminated wood, topped with the real wood finished surface. This increases the dimensional stability and limits the normal expansion and contraction of wood flooring. This allows it to be used in areas that would not normally be ideal for wood flooring. This type of flooring can be stapled down, glued down or ‘floated’ depending on the situation. Engineered flooring can also be used when height is an issue. Its usually thickness is 1/4′ whereas solid flooring is commonly 3/4″ thick. The down-side of engineered flooring is that it does not have the life-span of a solid Hardwood floor. Scratches and more extreme damage (which may be fixed by sanding a solid floor) are not as easily repaired.

Pre-Finished Flooring

This type of flooring comes with a factory finish already applied. There is no sanding/finishing done in the home. The flooring can be stapled and glued to the sub-floor like other flooring. This type of flooring is becoming increasingly popular due to the lack of dust and odour (sanding/finishing) and the shorter time of the entire project (i.e.. no extra days needed for sanding/finishing). The downside of Pre-Finished flooring is that imperfections (due to an unlevel sub-floor or other flaws in the working environment) may be more noticeable. With an unfinished, solid flooring, flaws and imperfections can be fixed or hidden during the sanding process.

12. HOW MUCH NOTICE IS NECESSARY FOR SCHEDULING?

We will need about 2 weeks notice for the installation and 1 week for sanding work. We would also like to deliver the wood to its final location (your home) 1 week before installation to allow the wood to adjust to your specific elevation and climate (this is not always possible, but is recommended).

13. WHEN SHOULD I SCHEDULE THE INSTALL AND SANDING OF THE WOOD FLOORS?

If your home is undergoing construction or remodelling, the best time for installation of the floors is usually right before the kitchen cabinets are installed. This allows us to lay under all the cabinets. Sanding is best done near the end of the construction process. Carpet installations are usually done after the final coat on your floor.

14. IS SANDING DUSTY?

Yes, sanding is dusty. We do our best to control the dust but it will get into any open areas. Sanders can take about 99% of dust , 1% will be in the air.

18. HOW SHOULD I CLEAN MY NEW FLOOR?

Vacuum your floors with a bristle attachment often, to avoid dirt and grit that can cause scratches. You should never use waxes, oils, or chemicals to clean your floor. Please use a cleaner and mop made specifically for hardwood floors. When the finish on your floor begins to wear down, we can recoat your floor (add an extra layer of finish on top of your existing floor) without re-sanding it. This is a cost effective way for keeping your hardwood floors looking beautiful for a long, long time.

17. HOW LONG BEFORE I CAN RETURN TO THE HOUSE AFTER COATING?

No one should enter the home or open any doors or windows for at least 4 hours after the final coat is applied. The next morning is usually the best time to enter and open doors and windows to air out any remaining fumes. Please be gentle on the floor for the first several weeks. You will know when the floor is fully cured when it becomes ‘slippery’ in socks. Polyurethane finishes may take a little longer to dry. If you will still have some construction traffic, use cardboard to protect your new floors (do not use tape on floor).

16. HOW DO I PREPARE FOR THE INSTALLATION AND/OR SANDING?

Everything should be moved off the floor where we will be working. It is possible for small items/pictures to move or fall due to the vibrations of our machines. High-tech equipment should be covered or removed from the area to avoid getting dust inside. Plants and animals (including fish) should be removed from the house during the sanding/coating process to avoid the fumes from the finish used to coat the floor. You should make plans to be out of the house during the 2 days of coating.

15. CAN YOU INSTALL A WOOD FLOOR OVER CONCRETE OR RADIANT HEAT?

Yes. This process is a bit more complicated than laying floor over a normal sub-floor, but can be done. One option is to use pre-finished flooring which can be glued directly to a smooth, level concrete surface. We can also place 3/4″ plywood over a concrete sub-floor and install a solid wood floor on top of that. It is best to contact us before installing the radiant heat in the sub-floor. We have a lot of experience installing over radiant heat and can advise you on how to have the tubes layed out to provide a good sub-floor for a wood floor.

19. GAP FILLING?

If you choose gap filling option please remember that wood is a natural material it can expand and contract. Over time, ALL filler can work loose and fall out.
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